Fix it

Indigo Not Working? Why It Won't Take, and What to Do Next

Don't reapply straight away: let the colour settle for a day, then check the method. Indigo mixed too early, no henna under grey hair, oil or product on the hair, soaking-wet hair and skimmed roots are the usual causes.

By Imran N. 4 min read

The short answer: don't reapply straight away. Let the colour settle for a day, then work out what went wrong. Start with the method. Common causes are indigo mixed too early and left to sit, no henna under grey hair, oil or product on the hair, soaking-wet hair, roots that didn't get enough paste, or shampoo within 24 hours.

Why is indigo not working on my hair?

There's rarely one cause. Go through these in order:

  • The paste sat before it went on. Indigo starts working as soon as it meets water. Mixed hours ahead, or overnight, it can use up its colour in the bowl.
  • There was no henna underneath. On grey, white or light hair, indigo alone usually looks blue, green, patchy or weak. It needs henna's warm base.
  • The henna base was weak or patchy. If greys turn green or bluish, the henna step may not have covered them evenly.
  • Greys stayed orange. The henna took, but the indigo was too weak, uneven or has faded: check its freshness, mixing, saturation and time.
  • Oil or product was on the hair. An oily coating can stop the paste reaching the strands.
  • Your hair was soaking wet. Too much water dilutes the paste where it touches the hair.
  • The roots were skimmed. Grey roots need paste pressed all the way in, not brushed over.
  • It wasn't on long enough, or the paste dried out. Aim for 1–2 hours, covered.
  • The paste was too thin, or had other things mixed in that diluted it.
  • You shampooed within 24 hours.
  • The powder was old or damp. Sealed and kept cool and dry, it keeps for 2 years from the date of packaging.
  • Your hair was already very dark. On black hair indigo usually shows as little more than a cool sheen.

Why did my roots stay light when my lengths took?

The lengths already carry colour from earlier applications, so they have a head start. Grey roots start from scratch, often pick up scalp oil, and can be resistant. Treat new growth as its own starting colour: henna first if it's grey, then indigo.

How to fix it

  1. Wait a day and look at your hair dry, in daylight. Fresh indigo keeps settling.
  2. Check the base. If greys are green or bluish, the warm henna layer is weak or missing: rebuild it with henna first, and strand test the correction.
  3. If the henna base is strong but the result is too light, warm or orange, strand test a correction with freshly mixed indigo, then apply it to the areas that need it.
  4. Correct only what needs it. Recolouring lengths that already took usually makes them darker than the roots.

The full method is in how to use indigo powder for hair, and for grey hair, in indigo for jet black hair.

How do I wash indigo out of my hair?

If it's paste that won't rinse out, saturate your hair with water, loosen the paste gently and rinse section by section; a light conditioner adds slip once the paste is out. If you mean the colour, indigo can't be quickly washed out: it fades with washing, more than henna does, and grows out. After the first 24 hours, washing as usual lets it fade gradually, but it won't return your hair to its old colour quickly. If your hair has gone too dark, stop colouring the lengths and touch up only the roots until the contrast softens. If you're thinking of bleaching or lightening, tell your colourist you've used indigo and ask for a strand test first: lightening over indigo can reveal green or blue.

How to stop it happening next time

  • Mix indigo only when your hair is sectioned and ready, and apply it at once.
  • Start with clean hair that's dry or damp, with no oil or product.
  • On grey, white or light hair, put henna on first, or mix it in for brown.
  • Work in small sections, starting with grey roots, and press the paste in.
  • Keep the paste covered and moist for 1–2 hours, then wait 24 hours before shampoo or oil.
  • Strand test whenever you change the method or ratio.

Frequently Asked Questions

How do I strip indigo from my hair?

Indigo can't be quickly stripped or washed out. Let it fade with normal washing and grow out, colour only new growth in the meantime, and talk to a colourist before any bleach or lightener, with a strand test first.

Why is indigo not colouring my hair?

Usually the paste sat too long after mixing, there was no henna under grey hair, or oil, product or too much water was in the way. Mix fresh, apply at once to clean hair that's dry or damp, and saturate the roots.

Can I dye my hair with indigo only?

On dark or already-hennaed hair, yes. On grey, white or light hair it usually looks blue or green. See indigo for jet black hair.

How do I wash my hair after applying indigo?

Rinse with plenty of water only until it runs clear, and wait 24 hours before your first shampoo. See how to use indigo powder for the aftercare.

Does indigo hair dye damage hair?

Indigo isn't a bleach or lightener, but a paste that dries hard, repeated full-length colouring or rough rinsing can leave hair dry or tangled. See indigo powder side effects.

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