Indigo Leaf Powder

Colour

Indigo adds a see-through layer of cool blue over your own colour. Over a henna base, warm copper and cool blue usually read as very dark brown to black; mixed with henna in one step, they usually give light, medium or dark brown, depending on the ratio. On its own, indigo cools and deepens hair that's already dark or already hennaed. Straight after rinsing the colour can look bluish or uneven, so judge it the next day, once it has settled. Indigo fades more than henna: the colour ideally lasts around 4–6 weeks before roots and faded areas need a touch-up.

On Grey Hair

Grey and white strands have nothing warm underneath, so indigo alone usually turns them blue or green. With henna first, grey usually colours to black or very dark brown; with henna and indigo mixed in one step, to brown. Grey roots can be resistant, so press the paste well into them. If greys come out green, see hair turned green after indigo.

How Hair Feels

Indigo's job is colour, not conditioning. Some hair, especially porous or bleached hair, can feel drier or tangle more straight after colouring. A smooth paste kept moist, a patient rinse with plenty of water and a light conditioner usually help; wait 24 hours before oiling. More in how to use indigo powder for hair.

Who It Suits

Anyone who wants brown to black plant colour with henna, including on grey hair, or a cooler, deeper shade on hair that's already dark. It isn't for a lighter or ash result: indigo doesn't lighten, and going lighter later is hard, so tell your colourist you've used it (lightening over indigo can reveal green or blue). Strand test first on blonde, bleached, highlighted or dyed hair, where the result is harder to predict.

Before You Start

Patch test 24–48 hours before first use (see Care & Safety), and strand test a hidden lock if you're colouring grey, blonde, bleached or dyed hair. Start with clean hair with no oil or product on it. There's no set amount: use enough paste to cover every strand, and more for long or thick hair. You'll need a non-metallic bowl, comfortably warm water, salt, gloves, petroleum jelly and a shower cap or damp towel.

Black: Two Steps, the Same Day

1. Mix Henna Powder with comfortably warm water to a smooth paste, cover it and let it rest 3–4 hours, ideally 8. Make enough for your whole head, plus a little to save for step 2.
2. Put a thin layer of petroleum jelly along your hairline, ears and neck, keeping it off the hair, and wear gloves.
3. Apply the henna in sections from roots to ends, working it into grey roots. Cover it and leave it on for at least 2 hours, keeping it moist.
4. Rinse with water only, with no shampoo or oil, and let your hair dry until it's damp, not soaking wet.
5. Now mix the indigo: add comfortably warm water a little at a time to make a smooth paste like yogurt, and add a pinch of salt. Don't let it rest.
6. Stir in the saved henna, about 80% indigo to 20% henna, and apply it straight away in small sections from roots to ends, pressing it well into grey roots.
7. Cover with a shower cap or damp towel and leave it on for 1–2 hours: at least 1, no more than 2.
8. Rinse with plenty of water, handling your hair gently. Conditioner is fine; no shampoo or oil for 24 hours.

Brown: Henna and Indigo in One Step

Rest the henna as above. When you're ready to apply, mix the indigo fresh with comfortably warm water and a pinch of salt, stir it into the henna at 70:30 henna to indigo for light brown, 50:50 for medium brown or 30:70 for dark brown, and apply it straight away to clean hair. Leave it on for 1–2 hours, rinse with water, and wait 24 hours before shampoo or oil. More in how to mix henna and indigo for brown hair.

Indigo on Its Own

Only on hair that's already dark or already hennaed. Mix it fresh with warm water and a pinch of salt, apply it at once to clean hair that's dry or damp, leave it on for 1–2 hours, then rinse with water. No shampoo or oil for 24 hours.

Aftercare and Touch-Ups

Judge the colour the next day, once your hair is dry and it has settled. Once your lengths are the shade you want, colour only the roots as they grow, using the same method. Leaving indigo on for longer than 2 hours doesn't make it darker; timing and aftercare are in how to use indigo powder for hair.

Indigofera Tinctoria Leaf Powder – 100 %

Warnings

For external use only. Avoid contact with eyes. Not for eyelashes or eyebrows. Perform a patch test before first use. Keep out of reach of children. Discontinue use if irritation occurs.

How to Patch Test

Patch test 24–48 hours before first use, with the mix you plan to use, including the henna and anything else in it. Put a little on a small area of clean, unbroken skin and leave it for 24–48 hours, then rinse it off; rinse it off straight away if it burns or itches. Don't use the product if the patch shows any irritation, such as burning, persistent or worsening itching, redness, swelling, blistering or a spreading rash. A flat blue-green mark on otherwise comfortable skin is most likely staining, not a reaction. Test again whenever you change the mix. A patch test can't rule out a reaction later.

How to Strand Test

A strand test shows you the colour before you do your whole head. Take a small hidden lock, or clean hair collected from your brush, and use the exact mix, method and timing you plan to use, including the henna step. Rinse and dry it, then judge the colour the next day, once it has settled. It matters most on grey, white, blonde, bleached, highlighted or previously dyed hair.

Using It Safely

Indigo is for hair only: not for eyelashes, eyebrows or near your eyes. If powder, paste or rinse water gets in your eyes, rinse straight away with plenty of clean water and don't rub them. Don't apply it over a cut, broken or irritated scalp; wait until it has healed. A plant dye isn't automatically suitable if you've reacted to a hair dye before, so take particular care and patch test first. Rinse the paste off and stop using it if it burns or the itching keeps increasing, or if you see redness, swelling, blisters or a spreading rash. If your face, lips or eyes swell, or you have trouble breathing, call 911. Indigo can temporarily stain skin blue-green; petroleum jelly along the hairline, ears and neck, kept off the hair, helps. Open the pouch gently and avoid breathing in the dry powder.

Storage

Keep the pouch sealed in a cool, dry place, away from humidity, heat and direct light, and use a clean, dry spoon. It keeps for 2 years from the date of packaging. Mixed indigo paste doesn't keep: mix only what you'll use at once, and don't save it for later. Throw away powder that has got damp, shows mould or smells spoiled; natural variation between green and olive-brown isn't a sign it has gone off.